Quick answer: A button is defined by three things — its type (how it attaches), its size (measured in ligne, or L), and its material (resin, metal, wood, horn, shell, or corozo). To choose the right button, match the type to your garment’s construction, the size to its placement, and the material to the fabric weight and care needs.
Buttons are small, but choosing the wrong one ruins an otherwise great garment. This guide explains every major button type, how button sizing works, and which materials suit which projects — so you can buy with confidence whether you’re repairing a shirt or sourcing for a clothing line.
The 3 things that define every button
- Type — how the button attaches to fabric (sew-through, shank, snap, toggle, etc.).
- Size — the diameter, measured in a unit called ligne (abbreviated L or ”’).
- Material — what the button is made of, which affects weight, durability, look, and care.
Get these three right and the button will both look correct and last the life of the garment.
Button types: a complete overview
| Button type | How it attaches | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Sew-through (flat) | 2 or 4 holes stitched directly to fabric | Shirts, blouses, lightweight garments |
| Shank | A loop (metal, plastic, or thread) on the back | Coats, jackets, thick fabrics |
| Snap (press) buttons | Two interlocking halves that snap together | Baby clothes, denim, workwear |
| Toggle buttons | Elongated button fastened through a loop | Duffle coats, cardigans, outerwear |
| Covered buttons | Metal form wrapped in matching fabric | Bridal, couture, upholstery |
| Stud / jeans buttons | Hammered or pressed metal, no sewing | Jeans, heavy denim, workwear |
The two you’ll meet most often are sew-through and shank buttons. The simple rule: thin fabric → sew-through; thick fabric → shank (the shank lifts the button so the buttonhole layer has room to sit underneath).
How buttons are sized (ligne / L)
Button diameter is measured in ligne (pronounced “line”), abbreviated L. It’s the global standard in apparel.
- 1 ligne = 0.635 mm
- To convert: diameter in mm ÷ 0.635 = ligne
- Example: a 20 mm button ≈ 32L
| Ligne (L) | Millimeters | Typical use |
|---|---|---|
| 16L | 10 mm | Shirt sleeves, baby clothes |
| 18L | 11.5 mm | Dress shirt fronts |
| 24L | 15 mm | Blouses, light cardigans |
| 32L | 20 mm | Blazers, jackets |
| 36L | 23 mm | Suit jackets, light coats |
| 45L | 28.5 mm | Overcoats, heavy outerwear |
Button materials compared
| Material | Look & feel | Durability | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Resin (polyester) | Smooth, versatile, any color | High | Shirts, most everyday garments |
| Metal | Premium, weighty, reflective | Very high | Blazers, denim, uniforms |
| Wood | Natural, warm, rustic | Medium | Knitwear, casual & eco styles |
| Horn | Unique grain, luxury feel | High | Tailored coats, suits |
| Shell (mother-of-pearl) | Iridescent, elegant | Medium (can be brittle) | Dress shirts, fine blouses |
| Corozo (tagua nut) | Natural, eco-friendly, matte | High | Premium shirts, sustainable brands |
How to choose the right button (4 steps)
- Start with the fabric weight. Lightweight → sew-through; heavy/structured → shank.
- Pick the size by placement. Match the ligne to the garment (use the size table above) and to your buttonhole length.
- Choose the material for look and care. Resin for everyday and washability; horn/shell/corozo for premium pieces.
- Buy a few extra. Always order 1–2 spare buttons per garment for future repairs.
How many buttons do you need?
- Dress shirt: 7–9 front + 2 cuffs + 1–2 spare
- Cardigan: 5–7
- Blazer (single-breasted): 2–3 front + 4 sleeve (×2 sleeves)
- Overcoat: 3–5 front
Always add spares — buttons are the first thing to get lost.
Frequently asked questions
What does “L” mean in button sizes?
L stands for ligne, the standard unit for button diameter. One ligne equals 0.635 mm, so a 32L button is about 20 mm across.
What’s the difference between sew-through and shank buttons?
Sew-through buttons have 2 or 4 holes and stitch flat to the fabric; shank buttons have a loop on the back that raises the button, leaving room for thick fabric underneath.
Which button material is most durable?
Metal and resin (polyester) are the most durable and easiest to care for. Horn and corozo are durable natural options, while shell can be more brittle.
Are wooden or corozo buttons machine washable?
Resin and metal handle machine washing best. Natural materials like wood, horn, shell, and corozo prefer gentle washing and should not be soaked for long periods.
How do I measure a button I already own?
Measure the diameter in millimeters with a ruler, then divide by 0.635 to get the ligne size. A 15 mm button is roughly 24L.